The Panel Test - Part 2

 

One of the questions I hear most often is:

“how can a Panel composed by humans be considered an objective method of classification when it comes to defining whether an Olive Oil is Extravirgin, Virgin or Lampante (not fit for human consumption)?”

Actually it was also one of the questions I used to ask during the courses I attended.

 

In the previous post I hinted to the effort of the IOC to standardize the Organoleptic Sensory Analysis.

All the conditions are standardized for all the members of the IOC. The Tasting method of a Panel in Tunisia should be exactly the same as of one in Italy or in Spain or in Greece ect.

However … the Tasters are Human.

So how can we be so sure about their objectivity?

How can we consumers trust the subjective perception of human beings??

This is the main problem of the Panel Test.

 

Yet, in spite of this weakness, to the present date the Panel Test (when working correctly and when faithfully following the prescriptions stated by the IOC), is still an accountable method of evaluating a Virgin Olive Oil.

 

This is why still today the Panel Test has not been replaced by other methods, even though it is costantly put under attack by the GDO Industrial Olive Oil producers, who see in it an enemy.

Infact for my experience, often only through human taste a clearly rancid (or with other defects) olive oil can be detected while at the chemical analysis it is considered as fully fine.

It is fairly easy for the industries to blend low quality olive oils together with real extra virgin olive oils in order to reach a product that at a chemical analysis respects all the limits of an extra virgin, but appears fully defected (therefore not extravirgin and often not even virgin) at the organoleptic analysis.

 

This is one of the reasons why the large industrial producers of olive oil tend to be against the presence of the sensory analysis, whereas the smaller quality producers tend to support it.

The problem though is: how can a method that is based on human senses be legally binding?

First and foremost, the regulation of the Sensory Analysis of the Panel Test contemplates a very low level of discrepancy among the results of the single tasters in order to be valid. Moreover, each year all the Panels have to undergo Ring Tests that assess their level of accountability of the panels.

Every year 10 samples of virgin olive oils are analysed in 2 sessions by all the panels of the IOOC members.

These ring tests assess the capability of identifying defects and positive attributes and they also assess the concordance level on the intensity of the negative and positive attributes perceived. These Ring Tests have the goal of guaranteeing and maintaining a certain level of accountability of the panel tests around the world.

Today the official panels (recognized and approved by the IOOC and by the laws of the IOOC members) are composed by 9 persons + the panel leader. A way of increasing the accountability of the panels would be to increase the minimum number of members, for example from 9 to 19. In this way, the weight of the possible mistakes made by single tasters would be considerably reduced.

 

On the topic I believe that the most exaustive and objective information come from the online magazine “Teatro Naturale”* and my opinion fully embraces what Alberto Grimelli and his coworkers wrote along time.

In fact, as Alberto Grimelli writes, using the Panel Test to detect a product that is faulted and therefore downgrading it, is actually a way of using common sense. It is nothing else than setting the human being at the centre of the attention.

 

The organoleptic analysis is a protection that is placed between the producer and the consumer in order to prevent that a product that is seemingly clear, but in reality defected, can reach the client's table.

Today the panel test is the instrument that can defend the interests of consumers.

The real weakness in my opinion, is the regulation of the European Comunity that defines that a producer can commercialize an olive oil that respects the chemical parameters and simply self assess that it respects the sensory parameters. Then if an official Panel tastes the product after that it has been bottled and put on a shelf, and if it identifies a clear defect, the response of the GDO in court is most often: it was fine when we sold it and it probably was not correctly stocked by the seller this is why it lost its initial qualities.

 

The judges at the best, order the removal of the production lot from the supermarket shelves and the story finishes with no responsabilty from the producer.

If the sensory analysis were mandatory for all virgin olive oils before commercialisation, the consumer would be certainly more protected.

It is therefore very important that the consumers know the difference in taste between a defected olive oil and a real extra virgin olive oil or a real virgin oilive oil.

It also fundamental that consumers know how to distiguish between a virgin olive oil that has certainly undergone the sensory analysis of an officially approved panel (for example olive oils that have obtained certifications of quality IGPs or DOPs) or olive oils where the producers simply self assess its quality.

 

This said, in order to compensate for the possible mistakes made by the Panels it is fundamental that the consumers become aware of what a quality real extra virgin olive oil tastes like and what it could actually cost.

 

* https://www.teatronaturale.it/strettamente-tecnico/l-arca-olearia/17768-il-panel-test-e-una-pistola-scarica-o-caricata-a-salve.htm

 

* https://www.teatronaturale.it/strettamente-tecnico/l-arca-olearia/26608-depotenziare-il-panel-test-senza-abolirlo-il-diavolo-si-nasconde-nei-dettagli.htm

* https://www.teatronaturale.it/pensieri-e-parole/editoriali/26185-i-numeri-non-mentono-il-panel-test-funziona.htm



Panel Test: What It Is and How It Works.

 

The Tasting Glasses

 

Once again the purpose and the procedures of the Panel Tests are codifed by the International Olive Oil Council.

As stated in the COI/T.20/Doc. No 15/Rev. 10 2018:

“The purpose of this international method is to determine the procedure for assessing the organoleptic characteristics of virgin olive oil and to establish the method for its classification on the basis of those characteristics. (…) The method described is only applicable to virgin olive oils and to the classification of such oils according to the intensity of the defects perceived and of the fruitiness, as determined by a group of tasters selected, trained and monitored as a panel.”.

 

The IOC describes and codes every detail of the way a Panel Test has to be conducted: from the glasses to be used (their shape, colour dimensions ect), to the Test Room Installation, to the temperature of the oils tasted, the temperature of the room and so on.

 

All these details have the scope of standardizing as much as possible the evaluation process.

For example the IOC states that ideally the test should be held in the morning between 10 am and 12 am (although this rule in particular is in my experience rarely respected, due to working issues of the panel members).

Among the detailed codes of conduct for the tasters: “They must remain silent while performing their tasks.” and “They must keep their mobile phone switched off at all times to avoid interfering with the concentration and work of their colleagues.”

The Tasters as well as the panel leader are selected and trained according to a standardized method.

The Tasting room is standardized as well as the number of tasters componing a Panel (“Between 8 and 12 tasters are required for each test, although it is wise to keep some extra tasters in reserve to cover possible absences.”).

The key concept is that the IOC aims at reducing all the chances of human subjectiveness when it comes to judging a virgin olive oil.

So if you were to observe an official tasting session, it would really appear quite "dull". Each taster sits in silence in his/her cubicle. In the cubicle he/she will find the coded glasses containing the olive oil samples, the tasting sheets, a pen, paper napkins, a spittoon, sparkling water and possibly slices of green apple to bite if needed between each tasted sample. The panel leader controls that every thing takes place regularly and gathers the tasting sheets at the end of the session.Only when all tasters have concluded and handed in their tasting sheets will they speak and make comments among each other.

If you are interested in all the details of the Organoleptic analysis, here is the link to the documents of the IOC.



Extra Virgin Olive Oils of Tuscany: IGP and DOPs

Tuscany Map

 

 

Today I want to speak about the Land I have elected as Home: Tuscany.

Tuscan EVOOS are probably the most famous Italian Oils. However, only little more than 8% of all Italian Olive-Grove-Surface lies in within its boarders.

Tuscany is characterized by small olive producers. On a total of about 100.000 hectares of olive-grove surface (distributed for the most part within the provinces of Florence, Siena, Grosseto and Arezzo), about 60% of the olive farms are smaller than 2 hectares. On average in thelast10 years, a little less than 3 % of all Italian EVOO was made in Tuscany (http://www.regione.toscana.it/web/toscana-notizie/dettaglio-notizia/-/asset_publisher/mk54xJn9fxJF/content/olivo-in-toscana-100-mila-ettari-e-15-milioni-di-piante;jsessionid=44ED5083DC3AC56C8EDB8449404125A4.web-rt-as01-p1).

This “small” amount makes it for me, if possible, even more valuable. And it makes it even more important for the consumers to learn to distinguish a real Tuscan EVOO from a fake.

The type of agricolutre in Tuscany is mostly traditional and only 10% of all Tuscan Olive Groves are intensive.

 
Tuscany boasts 5 geographic certifications of quality: 1 IGP and 4 DOPs.

The IGP (Indicazione Geografica Protetta) Olio Extra Vergine di Oliva “Toscano” embraces the EVOOs produced from Olives grown and harvested within Tuscany. The Certification IGP Toscano is given by the Consortium for the Protection of Tuscan EVOO . The disciplinary not only limits the production to the Tuscan borders but also states that the EVOOs have to be made for at least 95% of spedific cultivars which are traditionally Tuscan(Americano, Arancino, Ciliegino, Frantoio, Grappolo, Gremignolo, Grossolana, Larcianese, Lazzero, Leccino, Leccio del Corno, Leccione, Madonna dell’Impruneta, Mar­zio, Maurino, Melaiolo, Mignolo, Moraiolo, Morchiaio, Olivastra Seggianese, Pendolino, Pesciatino, Piangente, Punteruolo, Razzaio, Rossellino, Rossello, San Francesco, Santa Caterina, Scarlinese, Tondella) . The ones I wrote in bold are the most diffused cultivars.

Tuscan IGP Zones Map

 

As shown in the map above, within the certification IGP Toscano, a producer can decide whether to just ask for the generic “IGP Toscano” or can decide to add the area of production within Tuscany.

IGP Toscano is divided in 8 under-zones. Each of these 8 zones has an addition in the disciplinary that limits (obviously) the production to the boarders of the zone and also adds certain typical cultivars. For example the IGP Toscano “Seggiano” has to be made from at least 95% of the Cultivar “Olivastra Seggianese”.

Regarding the 4 DOPs: these are:

DOP LUCCA

DOP CHIANTI CLASSICO

DOP TERRE DI SIENA

DOP SEGGIANO.

Each of these is protected by its Consortium of Producers.

Map of the Tuscan DOPs

 

The COnsortiums of IGP and DOP producers control the Whole production process: from the growing of the olives on the trees to the harvest to the actual tasting of the Olive Oil produced. The warranty seals on the bottles are numbered and the Consortiums commission the locl official Panel Tests to taste the Oil and assess their organoleptic quality. For example, the two Panel of Siena, which I'm part of, is in charge of tasting the IGP Toscano and the DOP Terre di Siena.

TASTE:

Apart from the Extra Virgin Olive Oils made in the area around Lucca - which tend to be very mildly bitter in general if compared to the rest of Tuscany – most Tuscan EVOOs tend to be medium or robust both in Bitterness and in Fruity.

Some of the scents which very often characterize Tuscan EVOOs are artichoke , thistle, as well as green grass and green almonds.

Since the Fruity level of Tuscan Oils tends on average to be comprised between “medium” and “robust”, as a rule of thumb they tend to spouse very well with intense and tasty foods. If you choose regional tuscan recepies you certainly won't go wrong.

So some great pairings can be with: Bean Soups, Chickpeas, the “Zuppa Senese” (Sienese Soup with beans and Kale), the “Ribollita” (the traditional soup made from old bread, vegetables and beans), grilled red meat.

Wheras the “sweeter” EVOOs from the Lucca zone are great with more delicate foods such as grilled fish, grilled white meat.

 

I hope you enjoyed reading this post and I hope I inspired some of you to go and try out some certified Tuscan Extra Virgin Olive Oils.

Remember to watch our for the numbered  Collar or the numbered warranty seal on the Bottles that identify the authenticity of the content! In the image below is the Tuscan IGP warranty collar:

IGP Toscano warranty collar

Happy Extra Virgin Olive Oil Tastings!





Extra Virgin Olive Oil's Positive Attributes

Today I'm talking about my favourite part of an Olive Juice; the part which makes me smile! Its positive attributes.

As you can see from the Tasting Sheet below (it's the same as the one of the previous post), they are three: “Fruity” (which is perceived through olfactory and retrolfactory sense), Bitter and Pungeant.



Once again, for the precise definition of the Attributes, I quote from the glossary of the IOOC :

Fruity: “Set of olfactory sensations characteristic of the oil which depends on the variety and comes from sound, fresh olives, either ripe or unripe. It is perceived directly and/or through the back of the nose.”

Within the Attribute of Fruity we can define "Green" (if the sensation reminds us of unripe olives) ore "Ripe" (ripe olives). It is not so uncommon that an Olive Juice presents both Green and Ripe flavours. Moreover there is a whole variety of descriptors of fruitiness (artichoke, green grass, ect.) which we will hint to in the following posts.

Pungent “Biting tactile sensation characteristic of oils produced at the start of the crop year, primarily from olives that are still unripe. It can be perceived throughout the whole of the mouth cavity, particularly in the throat.”

To this definition the only thing I need to add is that the type of "Pungeancy" that I personally prefer... that I consider most harmonic, is the one that covers the Whole top of the tongue, rather than the throat.

Bitter “Characteristic primary taste of oil obtained from green olives or olives turning
colour. It is perceived in the circumvallate papillae on the “V” region of the tongue.” ... Regarding Bitterness, I find that this attribute deserves some extra attention.


ALL Extra Virgin Olive Oils present some level of Bitterness measured in at least 1.
All too often I still hear people say things like “I tasted an EVOO that was no good because it was bitter”. These sorts of phrases make the hairs at the back of my neck stand up! A Fresh Extra Virgin Olive Oil has to have some level of Bitterness. Why? Because Extra Vrgin Olive Oil is nothing else than Olive Juice. And if you ever taste a Fresh Olive.... you will immediately notice that fresh Olives ARE a BITTER FRUIT.

I will never repeat this enough. EVOO has to be at least a little bit BITTER.

If the median of the Bitterness is comprised between 1 and 2 we can say that the olive oil is MILD or “SWEET” (but please notice its just away of speech... virgin olive oils are NEVER actually sweet.).
Between 3 and 6 we say that a EVOO is MEDIUM.


From 6 and above we say that it is “INTENSE” or “ROBUST”.

Again, independently from whether you like it or not, Bitterness is a positive attribute. And it is also (often) an indicator of the amount of Polyphenlos contained in the Olive Oil.


 
Moreover, Personal TASTE has to be distininguished from the Positive Attributes, we are talking about.

In fact, an EVOO might have high scores in all its positive attributes and might be completely free of defects, but it still might not be of your taste.

Personal subjective taste is different from the objective description which comes out as a result of a panel test.

 

Once you have identitfied the quality of an Olive Juice, by detecting and by measuring its Positive Attributes and (if any at all) its defects, then you are completely free to like it or not.

I am personally fond of Robust EVOOs. I love the way they enhance certain types of regional Italian recepies and I look forward to posting on possible pairings between Extra Virgin Olive Oils and food!
 
I hope you enjoyed reading and
Happy Tasting!!


The Negative Attributes

 

To decide whether a Virgin Olive Oil is acutally ExtraVirgin or not, the detection of defects, or negative attributes, is a keypoint.
The organoleptic analysis (tasting) is a powerful instrument to catch possible faults that can remain hidden from the chemical analysis. To tackle this aspect of tasting, I shall start by showing you the Official Tasting Sheet.



Tasting Sheet. Downloaded from: http://www.internationaloliveoil.org/estaticos/view/224-testing-methods (consulted on 19.03.2019)

 



 

This is the Tasting sheet used uniformly by all ufficial panel tests of the countries members of the International Olive Oil Council, to establish whether an olive oil is extra-virgin, virgin, ordinary virgin olive oil or lampante at a sensory organoleptic analysis.

On this page http://www.internationaloliveoil.org/estaticos/view/224-testing-methods

at the section ORGANOLEPTIC ASSESSMENT METHODS you will find all the useful (official) information about regulations on olive oil.I find especially useful the Glossary part.

I you don't have time to read throughout all the documents... I'm here for this! :-)

Here is a summary of what I think are the main traits to be remembered.

As you might see, the classification of Virgin Olive Oils made by the OOC (or IOOC) seems to be explicitly designed to be confusing for the consumer. My personal sensation is that it has been designed to be confusing in order not to penalize the Great Mass Distribution olive oils compared to the high quality etra virgin oils. But, again... this is my personal opinion.

The fact that I quote the OOC costantly is not synonym of agreement with the method. In fact I deeply believe that it should be changed. However the main Olive Oil Producers of the World are members of the Council and follow its classifications, so this what we have to refer to.

So, according to the IOOC (see link above): “ (a) Extra virgin olive oil: the median of the defects is 0.0 and the median of the fruity attribute is above 0.0;
(b) Virgin olive oil: the median of the defects is above 0.0 but not more than 3.5 and the median of the fruity attribute is above 0.0;



(c) Ordinary virgin olive oil: the median of the defects is above 3.5 but not more than 6.0, or the median of the defects is not more than 3.5 and the median of the fruity attribute is 0.0;
d) Lampante virgin olive oil: the median of the defects is above 6.0."

Therefore: To be classified as Extra-Virgin, an olive oil must be completely free of defects and must be at least a little bit fruity.

This is why learning to detect the defects is so important for us consumers!
 
Here are the main and most common defects:


Fusty/muddy sediment :“Characteristic flavour of oil obtained from olives piled or stored in such conditions as to have undergone an advanced stage of anaerobic fermentation, or of oil which has been left in contact with the sediment that settles in underground tanks and vats and which has also undergone a process of anaerobic fermentation.”(from COI/T.20/Doc. No 15/Rev 10 2018 paragraph 4.1 – http://www.internationaloliveoil.org/estaticos/view/224-testing-methods -consulted on 19.03.2019).

 

... This is the typical odour that used to be present is old traditional mills.

Luckily in quality, modern mills this odour is not to be felt anymore, however in the back of many of them you might find an area where the left-overs of the olives are collected to be taken away and used to make pomace oil or fertilizers. If you manage to reach that area, you will notice that there the air is pervaded with a pungeant smell. That is exactly the odour of muddy sediment.

Also another odour which in my mind is related to Fusty is rotten fruit. Fusty/Muddy sediment is for my experience the most common defect that can be found.

 

“Musty-humid- earthy” "Characteristic flavour of oils obtained from fruit in which large numbers of fungi and yeasts have developed as a result of its being stored in humid conditions for several days or of oil obtained from olives that have been collected with earth or mud on them and which have not been washed.“ (cit.)
 
...Luckily I have felt this defect extremely rarely. In fact nowadays quality farmers and producers tend to have great care of their olives and the culture of pressing the olives quickly after the harvest is becoming a more and more a commonly accepted practice in Italy. Is is extremely rare nowadays that a farmer would keep its olives for a week or longer sitting before pressing them and very importantly: modern mills all wash the olives well before pressing them.



“Winey-vinegary” "Characteristic flavour of certain oils reminiscent of wine or vinegar.”
...Even in this case, nowadays in Italy this defect is quite rare. 

 

“ Acid-sour”  “This flavour is mainly due to a process of aerobic fermentation in the olives or in olive paste left on pressing mats which have not been properly cleaned and leads to the formation of acetic acid, ethyl acetate and ethanol.”

... This defect was for me the easiest to learn and detect. However it is normally very detectable at the first sniff. I noticed that already at the second sniff, I tend to not feel it as strong. This is why concentration on the first sniff is so important.

“Rancid” “ Flavour of oils which have undergone an intense process of oxidation.” 
Even if the term “rancid” is often used in every days speech. Actually the defect “rancid” is not as common (in my experience) as Fusty. It is often typical of old olive oils so its presence might be an indicator of not-freshness or even of an olive oil wich results from a blend between an old one and a fresh one.  Moreover it was for me not so easy to detect at the beginning.



Rancid Defect reminds me at times of the scent of dried-wall nuts or of the odour of seasoned salame.

“Frostbitten olives (wet wood)“ "Characteristic flavour of oils extracted from olives which have been injured by frost while on the tree.”

...This defect is for me quite easy to detect because of the description of “wet-wood” added to it. It is not common, since the harvest Europe is done in Autumn when the temperatures aren't below freezing temperatures. However there have been some years when exceptional frosbites have arrived early and damaged the olives causing te insurgence of this defect.

 

For what concerns the other descriptors of negative attributes. I must say that some are extremely rare and are mostly related to old-fashioned ways of pressing the olives or of storing them. For example the defect of "metallic" or "cucumber" can be related to a wrong storage method in tin cans which have not been seeled properly. The defect of "heated or burnt" is in Italy also quite uncommon and can be caused by something gone wrong in the mill system if the temperature has risen clearly over the 28°C during pressing or malaxation.

The sentor of "Dry Hay" is often related to Rancid defect therefore can show an Oxydation defect.

 

A very important point is that, once we have assessed the presence of a defect, this does not mean that we don't like to Olive Oil. Defining the presence or absence of certain attributes is very different from loving or not loving an olive oil. In some situations a virgin olive oil can have a hint of a defect but still be much more appreciable than a Supermarket-Shelf  Ordinary Olive Oil which is free of defects but also of any kind of positive scent! This is why, together with the defect we Always have to keep in mind the positive aspects of an Olive Juice... which will be the topic of the next post!

 

Please let me know if you found this post clear and/or useful and if you would like to read more of these.

 

Happy Tasting!!

How to Taste Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Let's Strip Like Pros!

Extra Virgin Olive Oil or, how I like to call it, Olive Juice, is first of all a dressing. Its “natural” place is on top of food.

So unless you are an Olive Oil Freak (like me and some others), you might not actually enjoy “drinking” olive oil on its own. And this is perfectly fine.

...However,

tasting Olive Oil on its own is actually the best way to fully detect and appreciate all its attributes (both positive and negative).

In fact almost no food has a neutral taste... Thank God! (imagine how boring our meals would be otherwise!!). Therefore tasting olive oil on its own is fundamental.

So lets see how it works.

1. First and foremost: Sniffing

Pour a small quantity of your olive oil in a beaker. Ideally a small coloured-glass like the one in the photo below would be perfect:

 

but for now any small beaker or glass would do.

 

Close your eyes. Why close your eyes? First, I find that sniffing (and tasting in general) with eyes shut prevents me from being, influenced in my perception. When it comes to taste and smell, external perceptions can be very misleading; secondly because it forces my mind to sharpen the other senses.

Ideally the tasting process should happen in a silent environment too. This is why the official Panel Tests foresee that tasters sit in cubicles without speaking or seeing each other, and the oil is served in coloured glass beakers which don't allow the sight of the colour of the oil inside.

Tip your nose into the beaker and take a nice deep sniff.

Since most of the attributes are perceived through our nose, sniffing is for me the most important part. As a matter of fact, for the purpose of detecting the positive attributes, most of them are perceivable through the olfactory sense. Only Bitterness (Yes Bitterness is a great positive atttibute) is sensored through taste.

2. Tasting and Stripping.

If sniffing is for me the most important part, Tasting is the fun part of the job! So lets see the Tasting Technique.

Take a sip of your olive oil.

Take a couple of seconds to let the oil actually reach every corner of your tongue, then take another couple of seconds to let the oil settle at the base of your mouth (more or less under your tongue, or in any other place where you feel comfortable knowing that you won't swallow it or inhale it abruptly after the next step).

Close your teeth and open your lips (as if your were forced to smile). Then, suck in one or two quick and short quantities of air. (Ok, a quantity of air cannot be short, but I hope I conveyed the idea of what I ment!). This process of “air-sucking” is called Stripping.

At this point it is up to you to swallow or spit.

In this whole procedure, remember one thing: Practice makes perfect … and is fun and also healthy, since extra virgin olive oil is a “super food”.So just start and practice your stripping! :-).

... Small extra tip: If you are a beginner, you might want to take your time (a couple of extra seconds) before your first “air suck”. Take those couple extra seconds to concentrate so that at the “air-suck” you don't shoot the oil directly into your throat, making you choke and cough ect.

3. Why is stripping so important?

As opposed to wine, the oil molecules are not volatile. Through “stripping” we give them a “push”: by rapidly sucking in air we help them vaporize, thus enhancing the restro-olfactory sensations. This helps us to perceive even more deeply the scents and details of olive oil.

Stripping and sniffing shouldn't be repeated more than two or three times in a row, however this is up to each one of you.

4. To swallow or not to swallow?

By the time you have sniffed, tasted, stripped, you have had the chance to get a good feeling about your oil. You will have had the chance to detect the attributes in order to appreciate it and describe it. However in the back of the palate and in our throat, sit some mouth buds TOO.

So swallowing or spitting is entirely up to you.

I personally tend to swallow the extravirgin olive oils I try because a) I'm an olivefreek and b) because its in the throat that I grasp the last facets.


The only times I actually spit an olive oil is in the presence of clearly and strongly defected oils, or when I have to taste several olive oils in a row, like at the panle test in high production season.

I hope you enjoyed reading this post and mosto of all,
I hope you have fun experimenting your Tasting Techniques!